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  >> Cloth Haven >> Past Exhibition >> One Up One Down >> Plain Weave from Different cultures  

 

 

1.KUBA CLOTH/RAFFIA WITH APPLIQUE, Zaire
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The unevenness of the fibre woven cloth lends itself to these organic applique patterns

 

 

2.TIE DYE ON SILK, India
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The fineness of the silk makes intricate tie-dyed pattern possible by tying and resisting the dyes with tightly pulled threads before dyes are applied.

 

 

3.TENUGUI, cotton, Japan
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A piece of cotton used by the Japanese as a towel, handkerchief, also a bandage and headwear in the old days. Perfect for different graphics.

 

 

4.KATAGINU, cotton,Japan
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Sleeveless top with extended shoulders, originally an informal ceremonial dress for the samurai class. Kahshimon, ¤p¯¾ the overall texture-like pattern is created by applying starch resist on stencil (which creates the dot), then dyed. The crest is hand painted.

 

 

5.OBI PADDING, Japan
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This padding made up of different fabric scraps was discovered inside a brocade obi, showing us how hand crafted cloth were once treasured and recycled. All the fabrics are plain weave, undyed and dyed, including stripe, check and plaid pattern, ikat, and stitched resist dye.

 

 

6.BUDDHIST MONK KESA, bast fiber, Japan
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Originally, the kesa was made by piecing together rags. However, in China and Japan where temperatures are much lower, undergarments were worn beneath the kesa, and it soon came to be used as a formal ornament. Several narrow strips of fabric are sewn together to form a rectangular cloth, which is usually draped over the left shoulder and under the right arm (*hentan uken °¾³R¥kªÓ). The kesa has various types distinguished by the number of strips of fabric used. The gojougesa ¤­˜ç³P¸Æ has five strips, the shichijougesa ¤C˜ç³P¸Æ has seven strips, and so on. Many Japanese Buddhist sects developed their own distinctive style of kesa.

 

 

7.OBI AND SASH, Japan
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The sash has a highly twisted weft yarn creating the crepe effect and narrowing the width, the ends are left woven with a regular weft yearn, create a ruffle effect.
The wide canvas like belt has ends woven with a finer weft yarn, making this portion thinner, even when folded double as the edge finishing, it is not very bulky.

 

 

8. TRADITIONAL WOMEN¡¦S TUNIC, cotton, China
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Handspun, hand-woven, plain weave with pin stripe. The tiny spots are results of home-spun yarn, foreign matters in the weft yarn, probably part of the cotton plant that discoloured with age. See how carefully the stripe is matched up at the arm seam and the bottom hem, showing the respect for homemade cloth.

 

 

9.STENCILED PANEL, cotton, Russia
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This panel was acquired from a general store in Kamchutka, Far East Siberia, where a wide variety of daily goods are sold. No idea yet what it is used for.

 

 

10.COTTON KANGA, Kenya
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Colourful printed cloth with text.

 

 

11.HANDPAINTED PANEL, cotton, Peruvian Amazon
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In the Peruvian Amazon, along the Ucayali River, live the indigenous Shipibo and Yine people. They paint onto natural undyed cotton with a brown plant-based dye, and then bathe the entire fabric in mud, thus turning the painted portions to black.

 

 

12.INDIGO PANEL, China
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Starch paste is applied on the undyed cloth through the use of a re-enforced paper stencil with the desired pattern. After being dyed in the indigo vat, the starch is removed revealing the white pattern. This is a popular folk method in decorating cloth in China.

 

 

13.PLAID SAMPLER ,spun silk, India
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The crossing of warp and weft of different colours create a 2 tone effect. 17 Warp yarn colours and 19 weft yarn colours create 323 different effects.

 

 

14. SARONG,cotton, South East Asia
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The Southern Asian culture or wearing sarongs, a simple length of fabric without tailoring encourage focus on design the cloth.
Multi colour checks from Cambodia, blue and white check and border from Bali, batik from Malaysia, all of a plain weave.

 

 

15.KITE, nylon,USA
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For a kite to fly, it has to be light, and the material with a density that would trap the air!
This lightweight nylon, with ripstop woven pattern for extra strength is a perfect material.

 

 

16.MOLAS/REVERSE APPLIQUE, cotton, Panama
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Scraps of plain weaves cloth in a variety of colours are perfect for the needle crafter. Reverse applique from the Kuna Indians in Panama, Central America.
The Hmong of Laos also practice this technique

 

 

17.CANVAS WORK
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Plain weave with open space is used for canvaswork or counted stitch embroidery.

 

 

18.HANDKERCHIEF
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Quick drying and smooth, perfect for a handkerchief. A finely woven plain weave is also the backbone for fine embroidery and drawnwork.

 

 

19.PINA CLOTH WITH EMBROIDERY, Pineaplle Fibers, Philippines
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Pineapple fibres are taken from the bark of the pineapple tree, it is almost silk like, crisp.. The clothing restrictions imposed by Spain, brought about the use of the starched pina . The addition of embroidery and appliques as forms of ornament on clothing, brought a delicate perfection. Nowadays, it is used for formal attire in the Philippines.

 

 

20.CHINESE PAINTING
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Before painting on silk, the silk is treated with alum and glue, making the silk less absorbent. It is often used for fans and screens for its translucency.

 

 

21.KELIM/ TAPESTRY, wool, Turkey
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Tapestry weave has a foundation of a weft-faced plain weave.. Thicker weft yarns hide the warp yarns. By changing of colours in the weft yarns pattern, pattern is created.