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Cloth Haven >> Past
Exhibition >> One Up
One Down >> Plain Weave from Different cultures |
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1.KUBA
CLOTH/RAFFIA WITH APPLIQUE, Zaire
°s·¦ÅÖºû¶K¥¬ «D¬w¤ã¥ìº¸
The
unevenness of the fibre woven cloth lends itself to these
organic applique patterns
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2.TIE
DYE ON SILK, India
¤ã¬Vµ·¤y ¦L«×
The
fineness of the silk makes intricate tie-dyed pattern possible
by tying and resisting the dyes with tightly pulled threads
before dyes are applied. |
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3.TENUGUI,
cotton, Japan
¦h¥Î³~´Ö¥¬ ¤é¥»
A
piece of cotton used by the Japanese as a towel, handkerchief,
also a bandage and headwear in the old days. Perfect for
different graphics. |
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4.KATAGINU,
cotton,Japan
¨¾¬V¦Lªá´Ö½èªÓ¦ç ¤é¥»
Sleeveless
top with extended shoulders, originally an informal ceremonial
dress for the samurai class. Kahshimon, ¤p¯¾ the overall
texture-like pattern is created by applying starch resist
on stencil (which creates the dot), then dyed. The crest
is hand painted. |
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5.OBI
PADDING, Japan
©MªA¸y±a¤º¹Ô
¤é¥»
This padding made up of different fabric scraps was discovered
inside a brocade obi, showing us how hand crafted cloth were
once treasured and recycled. All the fabrics are plain weave,
undyed and dyed, including stripe, check and plaid pattern,
ikat, and stitched resist dye. |
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6.BUDDHIST
MONK KESA, bast fiber, Japan
³Â½è³P¸Æ ¤é¥»
Originally, the kesa was made by piecing together rags.
However, in China and Japan where temperatures are much
lower, undergarments were worn beneath the kesa, and it
soon came to be used as a formal ornament. Several narrow
strips of fabric are sewn together to form a rectangular
cloth, which is usually draped over the left shoulder and
under the right arm (*hentan uken °¾³R¥kªÓ).
The kesa has various types distinguished by the number of
strips of fabric used. The gojougesa ¤˜ç³P¸Æ
has five strips, the shichijougesa ¤C˜ç³P¸Æ
has seven strips, and so on. Many Japanese Buddhist
sects developed their own distinctive style of kesa. |
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7.OBI
AND SASH, Japan
©MªA³nµw¸y±a ¤é¥»
The sash has a highly twisted weft yarn creating the crepe
effect and narrowing the width, the ends are left woven with
a regular weft yearn, create a ruffle effect.
The wide canvas like belt has ends woven with a finer weft
yarn, making this portion thinner, even when folded double
as the edge finishing, it is not very bulky.
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8.
TRADITIONAL WOMEN¡¦S TUNIC, cotton, China
´Ö½è¤jÃÌm ¤¤°ê
Handspun, hand-woven, plain weave with pin stripe. The tiny
spots are results of home-spun yarn, foreign matters in the
weft yarn, probably part of the cotton plant that discoloured
with age. See how carefully the stripe is matched up at the
arm seam and the bottom hem, showing the respect for homemade
cloth. |
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9.STENCILED
PANEL, cotton, Russia
«¬ªO¦Lªá «X°ê
This panel was acquired from a general store in Kamchutka,
Far East Siberia, where a wide variety of daily goods are
sold. No idea yet what it is used for. |
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10.COTTON
KANGA, Kenya
¦Lªá¥¬¶ô «D¬wªÖ¨È
Colourful printed cloth with text. |
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11.HANDPAINTED
PANEL, cotton, Peruvian Amazon
¤âø´Ö¥¬ «n¬ü¬w¯µ¾|
In
the Peruvian Amazon, along the Ucayali River, live the indigenous
Shipibo and Yine people. They paint onto natural undyed
cotton with a brown plant-based dye, and then bathe the
entire fabric in mud, thus turning the painted portions
to black. |
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12.INDIGO
PANEL, China
«¬ªO¨¾¬mÂŬV´Ö¥¬´T ¤¤°ê
Starch paste is applied on the undyed cloth through the use
of a re-enforced paper stencil with the desired pattern. After
being dyed in the indigo vat, the starch is removed revealing
the white pattern. This is a popular folk method in decorating
cloth in China. |
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13.PLAID
SAMPLER ,spun silk, India
Âù¦âµ·¼Ë¥» ¦L«×
The crossing of warp and weft of different colours create
a 2 tone effect. 17 Warp yarn colours and 19 weft yarn colours
create 323 different effects.
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14.
SARONG,cotton, South East Asia
´Ö½è¨FÅ¢¥¬ ªF«n¨È
The Southern Asian culture or wearing sarongs, a simple length
of fabric without tailoring encourage focus on design the
cloth.
Multi colour checks from Cambodia, blue and white check and
border from Bali, batik from Malaysia, all of a plain weave. |
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15.KITE,
nylon,USA
·ºå ¬ü°ê
For a kite to fly, it has to be light, and the material with
a density that would trap the air!
This lightweight nylon, with ripstop woven pattern for extra
strength is a perfect material. |
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16.MOLAS/REVERSE
APPLIQUE, cotton, Panama
¶K¥¬¥¬¤ù ¤¤¬ü¬w
Scraps of plain weaves cloth in a variety of colours are perfect
for the needle crafter. Reverse applique from the Kuna Indians
in Panama, Central America.
The Hmong of Laos also practice this technique |
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17.CANVAS
WORK
¨ë¸¥Î¤è®æºô
Plain weave with open space is used for canvaswork or counted
stitch embroidery. |
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18.HANDKERCHIEF
¤â©¬
Quick drying and smooth, perfect for a handkerchief. A finely
woven plain weave is also the backbone for fine embroidery
and drawnwork. |
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19.PINA
CLOTH WITH EMBROIDERY, Pineaplle Fibers, Philippines
¸ªáµÔÅÚÅÖºû¥¬ µá«ß»«
Pineapple fibres are taken from the bark of the pineapple
tree, it is almost silk like, crisp.. The clothing restrictions
imposed by Spain, brought about the use of the starched pina
. The addition of embroidery and appliques as forms of ornament
on clothing, brought a delicate perfection. Nowadays, it is
used for formal attire in the Philippines. |
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20.CHINESE
PAINTING
¤¤°êµe¥Îµ·
Before painting on silk, the silk is treated with alum and
glue, making the silk less absorbent. It is often used for
fans and screens for its translucency.
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21.KELIM/
TAPESTRY, wool, Turkey
½y¤ò§¤¹Ô®M ¤g¦Õ¨ä
Tapestry weave has a foundation of a weft-faced plain weave..
Thicker weft yarns hide the warp yarns. By changing of colours
in the weft yarns pattern, pattern is created. |
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